Leading:

Set a pace that is appropriate and keep the pace steady and smooth. A group bike ride is NOT a race. You are not to “Attack” off the front or try to show everyone how strong you are. That’s what races are for.

Holding a Line: To avoid overlapping wheels ride as if you are on rails. Use verbal and hand signals to avoid obstacles in the road. Ride smoothly and predictably, do not accelerate or brake too quickly and announce when you are stopping or slowing. Do not at any time sprint ahead and disrupt the flow. Even if there is a corner coming up, stay side by side and go through the corner like a well oiled machine. Riding with your bars ahead of the rider beside you is called “half-wheeling” and is a major faux pas. It’s up to you to keep up with the speed of the slower rider next to you. And for goodness sake, please try to keep to the side of the road, there is no need to take over the whole lane and annoy car drivers.

Following: There should be NO gaps in a group ride. As soon as you see a gap, fill it by riding into the space in a steady and controlled manner. There is no need to sprint into the space and then slam on the brakes, just gradually fill in any gaps as soon as you see them.

Peeling Off: When you are tired of riding at the front, and you feel it is time for you to go to the back, make sure the rider beside you knows you are tired and want to go back. Once you have both established that you are going back, check briefly that there isn’t someone overlapping your back wheel, then both riders slowly and gradually move to the outside and let the group come through the middle. Do not suddenly veer off to the side, peel off in a steady and controlled manner.

Too Tired To Go To The Front: If you do not want to go to the front, sit at the back and let the riders coming back from the front of the group slot in ahead of you. It is not acceptable to work your way up to the front of the group and then look around acting lost and confused, slowing down because you don’t feel strong enough to be at the front. If for whatever reason you do find yourself at the front, go through and take what is known as a “token pull”. You go to the front for a couple seconds, agree with the rider beside you that you are both peeling off, and go to the back.

Moving About In A Group: If you need to go to the back of the group, or need to move out away from the side of road because the road is damaged (for example), just steadily move in whatever direction you want to go in. The key to all group riding is to do things gradually and steadily. Even if there is a rider right next to you as you pull out to the side of the road, if you do it gradually, the other rider will naturally have time to move over with you. If you do anything sudden you will likely cause a crash. This is also very important when “peeling off” and “filling a gap”.

Obstacles and Hand Signals: Now, this is a very important rule. I’ve recently seen in both the US and Australia that people in group rides have gotten into the habit of yelling. I’m not too sure where this habit has come from, so let’s set a few records straight.

When you see a hole in the road, it is absolutely NOT acceptable to yell “HOLE” at the top of your voice, then weave around it at the last minute. It is also unacceptable to yell “SLOWING” when you slow down. If you can’t see the riders in front of you are slowing down, then maybe you should stick to monopoly on a Sunday afternoon.

All obstacles should be warned of by a simple hand signal. This does not mean pointing at something for 5 minutes after you have passed it. When you see an obstacle in the road ahead of you, put your hand down and give a signal that lets the riders behind you know if which direction they should go to avoid it. Traditionally a quick wave of the hand will suffice.

If you only see the obstacle at the last minute, ride through it! Better to get a flat than to take down the whole group. On the subject of obstacles, please only point out those that are worth pointing out.

What obstacles are worth pointing out? I hear you ask. That’s simple. An obstacle worth pointing out is one that will damage a bike or person behind you. Please don’t point out manhole covers unless they are deeply set in the road, and don’t point out leaves or small cracks in the road, and certainly don’t point out obstacles in the next lane.

Slowing and Adjusting Speed: This is probably the biggest crash causer on group rides. For some reason, when someone slows down ahead of them, a lot of riders jump for their brakes and yank the heck out of them, almost skidding and taking everyone down with them. You should be riding ever so slightly to the side of the rider in front of you; so when they slow down, you either stop pedaling and start to slightly overlap your front wheel with their rear wheel, or you touch the brakes gradually, once again using the “wheel overlap” as a buffer zone so as not to slow down too suddenly for the riders behind you.

Here’s what he has to say.

Borderstan: When did you start Bike Rack and what was your inspiration for beginning the business?

Harney: The shop opened in May 2007. I actually wrote the business plan in 1997. My inspiration came from being a cyclist and living in a part of the city that was not served by a shop. Personally, I was also inspired by my desire to own my own business.

Borderstan: Do you live in the neighborhood?

Harney: I live in Adams Morgan

Borderstan: When did you move to DC?

Harney: I moved to DC from Los Angeles in 1991

Borderstan: What about this neighborhood made you chose your location?

Harney: Our current location was not my first choice. However, as development in the Logan Circle area began to take off, it seemed like a good idea to be as close to 14th Street as possible.

Borderstan: What can customers expect from your business?

Harney: In my opinion and experience, our customers can expect a really friendly and knowledgeable staff, absolutely no attitude and we do not look down on anyone, a clean and attractive store stocked with the items that our customers tell us they want through their choices and feedback, a high level of community involvement and professional and expert repair service.

Borderstan: Do you think DC is a biker friendly city? Why or why not?

Harney: I do believe that DC is a much friendlier city toward cyclists than it has been before at anytime. I also believe that it will continue to become a friendlier city toward cyclists in the future. This is the result of local leaders who believe that DC can become a “cyclist’s city” and to local groups and organizations who continue to lobby for things like bikeshare, bike lanes, bike parking, education for cyclists and motorists, alike, and an enforcement of motor vehicle laws in regards to cyclists.

Borderstan: Where is your favorite place to bike in the city?

Harney: I am not big on riding in the city – I like to ride out of the city and keep going. However DC has a lot of great hill climbs, and of course there is Hains Point where I can be found knocking out a 40k time trial on a hot summer morning.

Borderstan: What is your best advice for someone either interested in starting to bike or just getting into biking?

Harney: Come see me.

Borderstan: Where’s your favorite place to hang out in the neighborhood?

Harney: That’s a leading question, I dont want to upset anyone, so I will say that I love the entire neighborhood, there is no bad place to hang out.

The Bike Rack (1412 Q Street NW) is open Monday though Friday from 8 am until 7 pm, on Saturday from 10 am until 6 pm and on Sunday from 10 am until 5 pm.

The Ridley Orion is an exercise in pleasant surprises. Firstly, the price. It’s a full-carbon fiber frame that borrows technical pedigree and geometry from Ridley’s pro-level bikes, and is fitted with a race-ready gruppo for around $2400. Secondly, the Orion offers a phenomenally versatile platform on which you can competitively train, ride recreationally, and race, while still allowing room to grow and upgrade as you progress through your local ranks. It’s Ridley’s full-fledged value option, and worth more than a second glance if you’re looking to get the most from your money.

Due to the unique design, the Ridley Fenix is a multi purpose frame that can be used for recreational and competitive riding. The oversized sharp edge tubing guarantees a high level of stiffness and is extremely strong in all areas. The specially developed flex areas in the seat stays absorb vibrations from the road to give the rider the right amount of comfort. This is a true all-rounder!

• Oversized diamond shaped sharp edge tubes ensures high strength and stiffness of the frame.
• Flex areas in the seat stay absorbs vibrations.
• Carbon tapered 1-1/8 1-1/2 head tube with angular contact bearings.
• Oversized press fit BB30 bottom bracket for maximal power transfer.
• Full internal cable routing for optimal performance, clean look, and minimal maintenance.
• Compatible with electronic and mechanical shifting

But, how much light is needed for safe road or off-road riding?

Light It Up
If you want to illuminate the road or trail ahead for your own eyes, not just to be seen at night by others, 10 watts is a good starting point. In general, the greater the headlight’s wattage, the brighter the light. There are also systems with yellow and white light, the latter being brighter at the same wattage.

Find The Right Features
Modern lighting systems are packed with features. There are twin- and single-beam headlight systems. There are different battery types (rechargeables are found on better lights). There are ingenious quick-release mounts so you can install and remove the light in a blink. Most lights offer high- and low-beam options like your car (use the high beam for downhills, pitch-black woods, high speed and intersections). There are even computerized light systems on which battery usage and light output is controlled via microchip.

Trail Torch
The ultimate trail setup is having one handlebar light and another on your helmet. The head-mounted light illuminates your field of vision and is especially handy for following bends in the trail because it moves with you as you turn to look (just don’t look directly at friends when riding because you’ll blind them for a few seconds). Meanwhile, the bar-mounted beam allows monitoring conditions directly in front of the bike for bumps, roots and trail irregularities.

Portable Power
High-watt light systems require large amounts of power so battery systems have gotten very sophisticated. In ascending order of cost, bicycle lighting systems use lead-acid batteries, Nickel-Cadmium (NiCad) batteries, and Nickel-Metal-Hydride (NiMH) batteries. NiCad batteries are lighter and less susceptible to power loss at high or low temperatures than lead-acid, and will last many more recharge cycles. NiMH batteries weigh 30% less than NiCad batteries and offer similar run-times and durability. Proper care and feeding of your battery must be followed to insure you get maximum battery life. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions regarding charging and use of any rechargeable battery.

Night Rides Can Be The Best Rides
Having a good light means you can ride safely at night, which is sometimes the best time to ride. It’s after car-commuting hours so the roads are less busy. The sun’s gone down, so it’s often the most comfortable time of day, too. And, at night, off-road riding can be magical. The best way to decide on a lighting system is to come in and look at some to compare features and cost. Which one is best for you really depends on how and where you plan to use it and how much you’d like to spend. If you can answer these questions, we can help you pick the perfect light.

Want to compare? Check out the bike light options in our online catalog! Shop online, pick up in the store. Call for questions. We’ll see you in the shop!

One of our favorite tires is the Continental Grand Prix. Now that your tires are a little worn from those long summer rides, it may be time to swap out your tires for fall.

The Grand Prix is a great overall tire. It’s good for commuting, training, and long rides.

It has the same Black Chili Compound as the GP4000S that gives it great grip and cornering ability. The Grand Prix is only 10grams heavier than its big brother the GP4000S, but its tread has the puncture resistance of a Gatorskin.

Retail price: $49.99

Traveling disasters can easily happen without knowing what do to, and just as important, what not to do. Problems can range from watching your bike tumble down the highway from a rear rack that was not properly installed, or a bike that was not properly fastened to the rack. All of this you get to witness firsthand in your rearview mirror.

Other problems range from bikes packed in cardboard boxes being damaged by careless delivery companies/drivers and bike boxes literally being thrown out of of airplane luggage compartments (I have seen that one happen). So, how do you protect yourself as much as possible from any of these disasters?

One of the most serious risks comes from roof-mounted bike racks. It’s too easy to forget that the bikes are up there and drive into your carport or garage. When this happens, even if your bike escapes major damage, it’s likely that the roof rack and car top will be bent, or worse. And, car roof repair can be shockingly expensive.

Remind Yourself That Bikes Are On Top: One trick that might help is placing the garage remote control in a cycling glove. This way, when you see the glove, it should trigger you to remember that there’s a bike on top. You might also try placing a sign on your dashboard, or hanging a flag on your carport with a picture of a bike on it. Maybe even a mirror mounted on your garage wall that lets you see the loaded roof rack as you pull up. One of these suggestions just might save you major grief.

Rear-Rack Precautions:  There are two reasons careful bike placement can’t be emphasized enough when using a rear rack. First, the bikes need to be high enough so that if you hit a rough road, there’s no way the wheels can strike the ground as the car bobs up and down. Second, you must keep the wheels well above the exhaust system to prevent the heat from melting tires and popping tubes. If in doubt, just ask and we’ll take a look and recommend a solution for your rack, bike and vehicle.

For Safety, Check And Re-check:  Occasionally check the rack installation, too. It can loosen over time and you definitely do not want the rack flying off on the highway. Snug bolts and attachments, inspect all components, and apply lube to parts that may rust or corrode. For rear racks, make sure the pads are still in place and protecting the car. Finally, remember to stop occasionally on trips to check the bikes and rack. And, don’t neglect to protect your precious cargo at stops. If you don’t have a lock, leave someone with the car or park next to a window so you can watch your precious cargo.

Don’t Let A Broken Bike Part Ruin Your Trip

What To Bring: If you are treveling with your bike over an extended period of time, carrying a few spare parts can save the day should your bike breakdown in transit or during your trip, especially if there is no bike shop around.

A few recommended spare parts to carry include:

• Seat-binder bolt;
• Spokes (that match your wheels);
• Brake and gear cables;
• Tire and tube (especially if you use a hard-to-find size);
• Replaceable rear derailleur hanger (if your bike has one);
• Chain tool (and spare pin if your chain uses them);
• Stem-binder bolt and clipless pedal and cleat screws.

Develop Your Bike Repair Skills:  Having the right parts to fix your bike will only help if you know how to use them, though. Consider packing a small repair manual in your travel kit along with your tools and parts so you’ll have the advice you need to execute essential repairs.

Pack Your Bike Carefully for Transportation

Pad Your Bike To Protect It:   You can avoid most damage during shipping by packing your bicycle carefully. Use bubble wrap, towels or styrophome tubes to wrap and protect the frame tubes.

Ask us for a fork block. These pieces of plastic fit between the fork blades to prevent bending should a heavy object land on your bike box. We also have axle caps, which prevent axle ends from poking through the box. When you’re packing your bike, pay attention to what’s touching what. Ensure that there’s as little metal-to-metal contact as possible to minimize damage. Put cardboard between metal parts that might touch. Inspect the packed bike for things that might rub, poke or scratch other parts of the bicycle.

One of the more fragile parts of any bike is the rear derailleur. Protect this by shifting into the largest cog. This moves the derailleur closer to the wheel where it’s less likely to get bent on the trip.

Take Inventory:   It can be rather frustrating when you get to your destination and discover that you left your seat or your front wheel in your garage while packing. Before sealing the box, take inventory and make sure everything is inside the box. Also, place loose parts (quick-release skewers, pedals, etc.) in a small box, seal it securely and stash it in the bottom of the bike box. That will prevent the parts moving around and beating up your bike in transit.

Flying With Your Bike 

Frustration cannot describe what you feel when you reach your destination and realize that something on your bicycle has been damaged, especially if the damage prevents you from riding.

Fortunately, this is rarely the case if the bike is packed carefully. If you’re not sure how to do this, we’re happy to do it for you. We take the bike apart just enough so that it fits in the box and travels safely. This usually involves removing the pedals, front wheel, seat and post (as a unit) and handlebars. Don’t worry though, as long as you have a few Allen wrenches and a pedal wrench to fit these components, reassembly is a snap. It should take you no more than 30 minutes.

Leave The Air In the Tires:  When flying with your bike, don’t worry about deflating the tires. People often recommend this because they think they might explode when the cargo bay de-pressurizes. There’s no risk to the tires and deflating them will just mean you have to fully inflate the tires before riding. It’s an unnecessary hassle and not much fun if all you have is a mini pump.

Optimum Protection And Easy Assembly:   One of the reasons to have us box your bicycle is that we know how to protect the frame and components from damage. We pad the frame and install shipping materials that keep parts of the bike from banging against each other in transit. And, when we disassemble your machine, we don’t change any brake or derailleur adjustments, which means you’re set to ride, once you’ve installed the parts we removed. Check with us for current rates on boxing.

Bike-Travel Cases:   If you travel frequently, consider purchasing a “hard shell” bike case. These boxes are more expensive than bike boxes but they offer more protection than cardboard and can be used over and over. Additionally, they include wheels on the bottom for easier toting through airports. Plus, once you own one, you might recoup some of its cost by renting it to cycling friends who travel.

Take Along Tools, Too:   When preparing your travel kit, assemble all the tools needed to build your bike. Be sure to pack some spare parts in the event of a breakdown. There’s nothing worse than taking your bike on a trip only to not be able to ride it because something broke. We recommend bringing spare tubes, a spare tire, patch kit, several spokes, a brake and shift cable, chain pins and a seat post binder bolt (holds the seat post tight in the frame).  We also recommend packing an inexpensive pair of gloves in your tool and parts kit. Put these on for assembly and then again for packing your bike, and you’ll save yourself a lot of hand scrubbing to remove grease and grime.

Don’t Panic If Something Was Left Behind:   If you’re unlucky enough to get somewhere with your bike and then realize that you left something crucial back in the garage, such as your shoes or front wheel, don’t give up. Remember that you can ship almost anything, almost anywhere in the world overnight. It’ll cost you a pretty penny but you’ll at least salvage the riding part of your trip. You can’t put too high a price on that.