Best Women’s Road Bike: Giant TCR Advanced W

Best Plush Bike: Giant Defy Advanced 1

Best Entry Level Road Bike: Giant Defy 2

It’s a way to make your bike your own, and whatever the reason may be, I love new bar tape day.

It’s like buying a new pair of shoes after riding your old pair relentlessly through the sun, snow, and rain. New bar tape is refreshing. Old tape can get pretty gross because nothing protects it from the elements and sweaty palms. And if the tape is anything other than black, the grossness is even more visible.

I love the feeling of stripping away miles of dirt, sweat, and sometimes tears – leaving bare aluminum, steel, or carbon exposed and waiting to be wrapped.

I’ve used a lot of bar tape, but I keep going back to Fizik. Unlike natural cork (which can be a good choice) you can pull the Fizik microtex tape HARD without any risk of tearing – to get a nice, tight wrap. Fizik bar tape is a bit thinner than natural or synthetic cork tapes, but it’s nothing a pair of  gel gloves won’t remedy.

If you want something a bit more plush under your hands, Fizik also makes a gel underwrap. The microtex (a sort of synthetic leather feeling material) is also super easy to clean. The tape comes in a large array of colors to fit your – and your bike’s – personality. The perforated look also adds a classy touch.

Wanna dress up your bike? Or just get rid of old, smelly tape? Give the Fizik tape a try. I bet you’ll like it.

-Simon

Got great photos of bikes and DC? Send them to us! bikerackdc[at]gmail[dot]com.

I live near the infamous Seven Corners intersection in Falls Church. For those who may not know what Seven Corners is, it’s Rt. 50, 29, 7, Sleepy Hollow Road, Wilson Blvd, and several smaller side streets all meeting in one place, giving each other high fives, then going their separate ways. It’s a small mess. The roads are not very bicycle friendly, and at certain times, downright dangerous.

So, in case any of our friends live in VA and want to get into safely, or vice versa, I would like some of the routes that I take to work:

1) Wilson Boulevard between VA and DC:

Hopping onto Wilson Boulevard provides the shortest commute for me. It’s 8.8 miles one way door to door, and if I get on it in the early afternoon, it’s usually pretty smooth sailing. That is unless anyone is driving on it at the same time I happen to be commuting. Wilson BLVD, although fast, has the most inconsiderate drivers I have experienced so far. That’s saying alot from someone who commutes into and out of VA. Wilson, in certain sections, has very narrow lanes, and drivers are rarely willing to yield to a cyclist. I have consistent close calls when I take this road. Also, Wilson’s pretty awesome going to DC, imagine a huge downhill the whole way. But, what’s easy going down tends to be a bit of a bummer coming back up to Falls Church.

2) W&OD and Custis trails:

On the rare occasion that I have to open the shop, I will take the W&OD and Custis trails. The roads in the DC metropolitan area tend to be a bit…crowded in certain times of the day. Since the shop opens at 8am, I have to hit the road by 7am to get there on time. 7am is not a friendly time for bicycle commuters, especially on the main roads into DC. This route is the longest with a total of 10.1 miles one way. Although long, commuting on trails is the safest way to ride into DC. Since it’s a multi-use trail it’s completely separated from the roads and cars and clearly divided. The trails can get a bit crowded, especially on the weekends, but tend to be pretty quiet during rush hours.

3) RT29:

I have only taken Route 29 home when I close the shop. This is because traffic tends to die down around 8:30pm, and all of the drivers who like to pretend that they’re NASCAR drivers have made it home. RT29 has been, for me, incident free, so I feel relatively safe on this road. I can’t imagine what’s it’s like during rush hours, but it’s a nice “mix-up the commute” road for me. It’s a total of 9.8 miles from the shop to my door.

Those are just three routes that I’m familiar with, and I’m sure there are more great routes that I have not taken. So, if you’re in the East Falls Church area and would like to share a nice commute, I’d love to hear about them.

-Simon

Above: Kate's new bike! An Orbea Carpe built with a Topeak rack and Jandd panniers.

Above: Shop staff ride past Rock Creek Nature Center.

Above: View by bike on one of our favorite rides, along the Mt. Vernon trail between the Key Bridge and National Airport.

Look!

Above: A new headset and brakes after tune-up from a happy customer.

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Got great photos of bikes and DC? Send them to us! bikerackdc[at]gmail[dot]com.

Learn to Control your Bike:  Controlling your bike means being able to handle your bike with skill and confidence. It also means having a working familiarity with its parts, such as shifting, braking, cornering and how to perform basic maintenance to keep your bike operating safely.

Know the Rules of the Road:  Cyclists everywhere have “selective vision” when it comes to stop signs and red lights (yours truly included). Momentum is key for the cyclist and who wants to break that when nobody is around? Remember, even when you think its safe, there is always an inherent risk in not obeying the traffic rules. By following these rules you are more likely to remain upright and you are setting examples for others.

Know Where to Ride:  When riding on a busy street it is important to position yourself for maximum safety. Lane positioning is key and includes the following:

• Ride in the same direction as traffic
• Take the entire lane if traveling at the same speed as traffic or in a narrow lane with no shoulder. This will prevent a car from “squeezing” you out of the lane and off the side of the road  if they try and pass.
• Take the lane before intersections and turns to assert your position on the road.
• Always pass on the left, drivers never expect someone to pass on the right and never look to the right. This will also prevent someone from making a right turn into you.
• Always make eye contact with drivers to let them know you are there.
• Always ride far enough away from parked cars to avoid hitting an opening car door.
• Avoid the Mistakes of Others:  Be fully engaged and aware when riding and always anticipate what can happen. You can anticipate a crash by making eye contact with drivers, observe all traffic around you, listen for vehicles passing from behind, and know how to ride in an intersection.

Helmets and Other Passive Protection:  Helmets will not help to avoid a crash but they will protect your brains in the event of one. The clothes you wear can also act as a form of passive protection. Can you be seen in what you are wearing? Are you wearing pants that can get caught in your front chainrings or derailleur?

In conclusion, we have established how important education is to the cyclist whether they be a commuter or recreational rider. Unfortunately resources to educate cyclists are not always readily available. In Washington, we are fortunate to have the Washington Area Bicycling Association (WABA) who provides this type of education to all cyclists. WABA has been doing a nice job partnering with shops like The Bike Rack to present “Commuter Clinics” helping to educate cyclists thjrough their local bike shops.

The Bike Rack has also taken steps on its own to provide resources, such as Basic and Advanced Maintenance Clinics, Commuter Clinics and workshops on Group Riding and Pacelining. For more information check out our website, send an email to info@bikerackdc.com or give us a call at 202-387-2453.

Wheels
In general, bicycle commuters will want to acquire stronger, beefier wheels than those used by recreational bicyclists. Commuters are often contending with more varied and challenging pavement surfaces (potholes, debris, etc.), and are generally more heavily loaded, with things like a laptop, work materials, books, lunch, change of clothing, etc.

My general advice to any bicycle commuter is to get the strongest handbuilt wheelset they can afford, and for most a standard 36-spoke wheel will work very well. Many bicycles come off the showroom with machine-made spec wheels, which may not always be the most reliable over time. Likely great for light recreational riding on weekends, and over a few years, no problem. For everyday hard urban bicycle commuting, you really need great wheels.

Bicycle commuters should also consider beefy tires for similar reasons. Spend a little more for durability and puncture resistance. It’s worth the investment.  Basically, regarding bicycle equipment, my advice is always the same: good durable frame, great durable wheels, strong puncture-proof tires. Get the most bike you can afford; in the end it will always pay off.

Locks

The first consideration with a lock is to understand that EVERY lock can be defeated by a motivated thief. Learning good locking techniques (secure wheel and frame, remove lights, etc.) and accurately assessing the threats are critical to prevent the heartbreak of a stolen bike. A strong U-Lock should be used to secure the frame. In addition to a good U-Lock keep your wheels secure with OnGuard locking skewers. Again, no lock is 100% secure. The key is to make your bike MORE secure than the other bicycles in the vicinity.

Lights

There are generally two types of lights, those which enable you to see and those which enable you to be seen. My recommendation is to use the brightest light you can afford. Not only will it illuminate your way, but you will get more respect from motorists.

Flat Kit Supplies 

I cannot stress the importance of a flat kit. Think about it, you are away from home and you get a flat and you have no means of repairing it. You have a few choices, call someone, walk or hail a cab (if you happen to be in a cab zone). None of those sound too appealing and they can all be avoided with a simple under-the-saddle rail-flat kit. The important ingredients of any well stocked flat kit includes a spare tube, tire levers, an inflation device (CO2) and preferrably a few strips of an old tube to be used as a boot in the event that your tire is gashed beyond saving when you get a flat.

Contrary to popular belief, being an employee at a bike shop does not mean that bike are handed to you like candy. The small voice in your head that tells you that that full carbon, Dura Ace bike is a bit out of your price range rings loud and clear in my head as well. So, I have begun a quest to find an awesome bike for an awesome price. This, to me, means finding a bike for under 2000$ with a good component group, an I consider Shimano Ultegra a pretty good group. Wanting Ultegra eradicates any chance of finding a sub-2000$ bike with any other material than aluminum. So, aluminum it is.

In my search I came across one problem, there aren’t many manufacturers making aluminum bikes with component groups better than Shimano 105. I did a quick search on the internet and found that Cannondale is only manufacturer (it was a quick search), other than Scott, that puts out an aluminum bicycle with Ultegra or higher components. Don’t get me wrong, CAAD 10s are great bikes, but I consider myself a recreational rider and want something of an endurance geometry, and that’s where the Scott Speedster S10 comes in.

I am a previous Scott owner. The CR1 Pro was one of my favorite bikes. It was not overly aggressive and I was comfortable no matter how long the ride. Although the S10 has an aluminum frame, it share the same geometry of the CR1s. And while you’ll never achieve the same feel of carbon with an aluminum bike, the S10 is mated with a carbon fork to take the edge off of the bumps. It’s a small price to pay to have the crisp shifting of Ultegra at your fingertips.

I think the best thing about the S10 is that it comes with a 1,700.00$ price tag. It’s close to 600$ less than the Cannondale option and close to half the price of Scott’s carbon option.

If, like me, you’re looking for an awesome bike for under 2,000$, come on in and test ride the Scott Speedster S10. I’m sure you’ll enjoy it.

-Simon

Green Rush 2012 is here and The Bike Rack is proud to be a sponsor of this urban scavenger hunt.

On April 21st, join hundreds of fellow eco-conscious adventurers in DC for the Green Rush – a scavenger hunt unlike any other. Teams of 2-5 people compete in challenges and decode clues for achance to win a $1,000 grand prize.  And, bust out your best green themed costume for a chance at the Green Spirit Award and a year of Honest Tea.

The Green Rush is co-presented by Live Green and Clean Currents, two organizations who make eco-friendly living accessible and fun. And what better way to show off DC’s green resources than through a wild and crazy city-wide scavenger hunt? So, grab your friends and get ready to experience DC in a whole new way.

After the race, celebrate at the after party at Liv hosted by Repax. Enjoy a performance by Tabi Bonney, share tales of glory, and witness the crowning of the new 2012 Green Rush Champion.

So, what are you waiting for? Get your team together and go for the green!

The B17 is Brook’s flagship model, ideal for long distance sports touring, trekking and ATB use. It has been on the market for over 100 years, being featured in as early as the 1898 catalogue . The model is available for gents and ladies: the B17 (gents) and B17 S (ladies). The Standard models feature black steel rails, the B17 Special features copper plated steel metalwork, and the B17 Titanium … The B17 Special, the B17 Titanium and the B17 Select also feature hand hammered copper rivets. The following reviews should answer any questions about whether or not this saddle is right for you…

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“I’ve been riding this seat for 5 years now and probably have well over 2000 miles on it. It is by far the most comfortable seat I have ridden. The leather is nice and broken in now and has formed itself perfectly to my sit bones, almost like a nice pair of sneakers after you have worn them awhile. Most of the people who bash this seat fail to realize that and give up on it way too quickly. It takes time to break it in properly.  Go ahead and buy a can of Proofide when you buy this seat. It helps the leather form to you faster. Wipe it down after every ride with the Proofide and you’ll begin to feel the leather forming to you.”

“Strengths:    Absolutely the best saddle ever. There is no argument there. I am 200lbs+ and tried several WTB/Serfas crap before settling for this one after reading about it on Sheldonbrown.com. It is the most comfortable saddle one can ever have, or at least that’s how I feel. The first two weeks (about 200 miles) were uncomfortable. Then, it started to break-in and it became more comfortable with every ride. Now after almost 1000 miles on it, it is so comfortable that I don’t even feel it under me. It is like suspending on air. People giving Brooks a bad rap are usually impatient and give up after few rides. You have to know that you need to baby it for at least 400 miles before you will know what a great product this is. Don’t use anything else except Brooks Proofide, and it will be look and feel awesome. Go for it and have patience while it adjusts to your sit bones, and you will be rewarded by the best upgrade you can have on your bike.
Weaknesses:    None”

“I have had many saddles over the years. Tried a Brooks Swift last year and it broke in well and was extremely comfortable. Decided to try the B17 Titanium. Well from the initial ride it is very comfortable. Do not know if it is the titanium rails or the saddle. My posterior just seems to  fit this saddle. Looks as if no breakin period will be required. Thats what I call a result. Thank you Brooks.”